Home Forums Conversions MK2 Coach Conversion

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  • #1223
    Richard S
    Participant

    While the Triang Big Big MK2 coaches are reasonably accurate they are shorter than British Rail MK2 coaches should be. Also more realistic ready to run O gauge coaches from the likes of Heljan are expensive starting at about £170 for a BR MK1 with the Mk2 coming in at over £230 when they are available in 2022!

    My plan is to have a go at converting some Big Big coaches in to something more accurate.

    I found some plans at https://www.networksoutheast.net/coaching.html and comparing to the Triang coaches you can see it’s missing a door and window in length and the existing windows are also further apart than they should be.

    There is also someone on eBay selling 3d printed upgrade items for Big Big coaches (and Hymeks – another story) which should come in very useful.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/floyd_kraemer?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

    There are 3 ways I’ve seen other people doing this.

    1. Cut a coach in half and insert a section cut from another coach consisting of the missing door and window. Whilst the easiest this ends up with the coach being longer than the correct scale length.

    2. Cut the train up into multiple sections with one window per section (adding the extra window and door) and re-glue it all back together to get the correct length filling all the gaps with filler. You then sand the whole coach down removing all the raised window surrounds which you then replace with acid etched metal ones. This looks better, but because the coach bodies are about 4mm thick the window surrounds come out at about 6 inches thick if it they were full size.

    3. You’ve guessed it, the method I’m trying. Cut the train in half at the right point to add the extra window and door and make it the right scale length ignoring where any existing windows end up. Then cut out the complete white coloured window areas between the doors and replace with thinner plastcard with window holes cut in the correct places, fill, sand and attach the acid etched window frames.

    Sounds easy so here we go!

    After a lot of adjusting the length and sanding to get it straight it came out like this. I checked it on a piece of glass to ensure it was flat with the edge against a spirit level to make sure it wasn’t banana shaped.

    Glued it together with  Slaters MEK-PAK polystyrene cement which because it is a solvent melts the surfaces together and unlike superglue doesn’t stick your fingers together. Apparently you can also make a liquid filler out of it by dissolving offcuts of plastic in it. I was actually really impressed with how strong the guide joint has ended up.

    Then attacked  it with a multitool using the borders of the white area as a guide.

    Looks better after a bit of filing and sanding.

    …Next time

    Cutting plasticard inserts, laying out the new windows and cutting the holes.

     

    #1235
    Richard S
    Participant

    So I cut some 1mm thick plasticard panels to fit the gaps and then marked out the window holes by drawing around the window frames that I got from https://www.jandmhughesogauge.com

    #1236
    Richard S
    Participant

    Then trial fitted…

    …before scoring around the outside of the windows between the lines the hole so that the frame will overlap both the window hole and the glazing. Then cut an x using a Dremel  so the remaining plastic could be snapped off.

    After some more filing glued in permanently using the polystyrene cement leaving slightly proud along the bottom edge due to a slight wasting of the body below the windows. Filler will hopefully then fill the gap to give a smooth line up the side of the body.

    #1238
    Richard S
    Participant
    #1239
    Richard S
    Participant

    This is after about 4 cycles of sanding and filling.

    You may have noticed I’ve also filled the holes in the roof with plasticard, squared off the tops of the end doors and opened up the small windows. It doesn’t matter that this window is still in the original thick  body as it is the toilet and will be opaque white so you won’t see that thickness.

    Next time…
    Maybe rain guttering and other details.

    #1240
    Richard S
    Participant

    These arrived the other day!

    #1242
    Richard S
    Participant

    Forgot to take a picture, but put a coat of grey on and it really showed up the imperfections, but did remember to take a picture part way through several cycles of filler primer and sanding.

    …and this is what it looks like once it’s finally smooth with 2mm acetate sheet cut to fit all the windows and temporarily wedged in the gaps. They will be permanently fixed from the inside behind the frames once all the painting is completed.

    and because  it hasn’t been seen before the inside looks like this,

    #1232
    Richard S
    Participant

    So I cut some 1mm thick plasticard panels to fit the gaps and then marked out the window holes by drawing around the window frames that I got from https://www.jandmhughesogauge.com

    Then trial fitted…

    …before scoring around the outside of the windows between the lines the hole so that the frame will overlap both the window hole and the glazing. Then cut an x using a Dremel  so the remaining plastic could be snapped off.

    After some more filing glued in permanently using the polystyrene cement leaving slightly proud along the bottom edge due to a slight wasting of the body below the windows. Filler will hopefully then fill the gap to give a smooth line up the side of the body.

    Apply some filler

    https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/perfect-plastic-putty

    This is after about 4 cycles of sanding and filling.

     

    You may have noticed I’ve also filled the holes in the roof with plasticard, squared off the tops of the end doors and opened up the small windows. It doesn’t matter that this window is still in the original thick  body as it is the toilet and will be opaque white so you won’t see that thickness.

    Next time…

    Maybe rain guttering and other details.

    #1233
    Richard S
    Participant

    So I cut some 1mm thick plasticard panels to fit the gaps and then marked out the window holes by drawing around the window frames that I got from https://www.jandmhughesogauge.com

    Then trial fitted…

    …before scoring around the outside of the windows between the lines the hole so that the frame will overlap both the window hole and the glazing. Then cut an x using a Dremel  so the remaining plastic could be snapped off.

    After some more filing glued in permanently using the polystyrene cement leaving slightly proud along the bottom edge due to a slight wasting of the body below the windows. Filler will hopefully then fill the gap to give a smooth line up the side of the body.

    Apply some filler

    https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/perfect-plastic-putty

    This is after about 4 cycles of sanding and filling.

    I’ve also filled the holes in the roof with plasticard, squared off the tops of the end doors and opened up the small windows. It doesn’t matter that this window is still in the original thick  body as it is the toilet and will be opaque white so you won’t see that thickness.

    Next time…

    Maybe rain guttering and other details.

    #1234
    Richard S
    Participant

    So I cut some 1mm thick plasticard panels to fit the gaps and then marked out the window holes by drawing around the window frames that I got from https://www.jandmhughesogauge.com

    Then trial fitted…

    …before scoring around the outside of the windows between the lines the hole so that the frame will overlap both the window hole and the glazing. Then cut an x using a Dremel  so the remaining plastic could be snapped off.

    After some filing and sanding glued in permanently using the polystyrene cement leaving slightly proud along the bottom edge due to a slight wasting of the body below the windows. Filler will hopefully then fill the gap to give a smooth line up the side of the body.

    Apply some filler
    https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/perfect-plastic-putty

    This is after about 4 cycles of sanding and filling.

    You may have noticed I’ve also filled the holes in the roof with plasticard, squared off the tops of the end doors and opened up the small windows. It doesn’t matter that this window is still in the original thick  body as it is the toilet and will be opaque white so you won’t see that thickness.

    Next time…
    Maybe rain guttering and other details.

     

    #1237
    Richard S
    Participant

    Apply some filler
    https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/perfect-plastic-putty

    This is after about 4 cycles of sanding and filling.

    I’ve also filled the holes in the roof with plasticard, squared off the tops of the end doors and opened up the small windows. It doesn’t matter that this window is still in the original thick  body as it is the toilet and will be opaque white so you won’t see that thickness.

    Next time…
    Maybe rain guttering and other details.

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